New York Fashion week has been nothing short of charming, scandalous & decadent. Here is our NYFW digest covering 5 shows that stood out to us.
The weather was not always on the brighter side during the fashion week, however this proved to be of added value to the Rodarte show which was held outside in an East Village cemetery. Guests were handed plastic umbrellas and left to wait under the rain, surprisingly, this did not upset guests – instead it added to the mood & spell Rodarte was about to create with its’ collection. The runway was charming, dresses exuded exaggerated femininity, the models seemed nostalgic and almost sad, described by vogue as ‘long-deceased party girls’. The designers said to have been inspired by roses, gardens and natural elements which could be seen through the intricate embroidery, embellishments, bright colours and voluminous silhouettes. The accompaniment of the rain, Chet Baker soundtrack and wistful mood – the collection created a short twisted fairy-tale that viewers would not forget.
Inline with the dynamic NYFW, there were completely opposite shows. Such as the Tom Ford S/S 2019, who took the route of the more twilight-after dark glamour. The collection was shown on a classic-kind of runway, where the focus was on the models. The collection seemed to channel Tom Ford’s late era at Gucci, from corsets, silk satin suits to ruched skirts to the knee, the collection screamed dark glamour. In theme, the colours stayed within the night theme: blacks, whites, skin-tone hues & a touch of pale lilac. The textures and textiles stole the lime light, fake crocodile; silk & lace. The mixture of all these elements and hair scarf detail suggests that maybe Ford has had a changed the way of viewing ‘glamour’ today.
It’s safe to say that, under the hands of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, Oscar de la Renta is a different label – which was reinforced again at their NYFW show. The designers attained inspiration from the brands’ archives and added their own relaxed twist to it. The Moroccan and Indian Sari silhouettes came from the designers past visits to those countries, giving the whole collection a less formal and more suave appeal. The collection reminded one of different moments in a lavish holiday, such as sailing; walking on the beach, dinner by the sunset and maybe even a night out in town.
The Marc Jacobs collection could not go unnoticed. The voluminous silhouettes called back the 80s YSL era, only this time everything was taken to the extreme. The models seemed to float down the runway, exhibiting extravagance and sublimity. The show was described by many critics as a ‘dramafest’, the textures of feather; latex; sequins and tweed were a treat to the eye. The collection almost seemed to be designed particularly for editorial purposes rather than ready to wear, not in an avantgarde-way but rather in an exaggerated way. Therefor we can definitely expect some of this pieces in the next vogue spread.. but will this collection be ‘RTW’ for any other occasion?
On a more accessible note, the Boss runway was the first combined womens’ and menswear show. This collection went down the ‘athleisure’ route, which maybe seems old news now, but Boss managed to give it its own elegant touch. From fine knit dresses to nylon trenches, the collection felt light as a whole – very wearable and relatable (especially for the LA wellness obsessed culture). The women were dressed with fluid-like materials, nothing close to the body. The menswear loosened up too. The suits had laid back details such as drawstrings or less tailored elements. The colours were repeated religiously, blues; greys; burgundy; red; a bright orange; yellow and a dusty pink colour that seemed to dominate the collection.
In conclusion our analysis of the New York spring 2019 fashion week pretends that colour and volume are definitely trending. Besides some more classic designers, there was an apparent use of exaggerated silhouettes, if not that then more daring use of colours. We are excited to see what the next Fashion week proposes.
By Camilla Ottaviani